Date: 8/1/2017
By countingwaves
A group of us stayed at my nans place which over looked the beach, we decided to go out for a surf and the girl I was seeing at the time decided to tag along. The waves were massive and I was worried she wouldn't manage. Turns out she could surf and she got snapped up by a Hollywood director who featured her in a new film. I was pretty annoyed but also glad she left which meant I had he waves to my self, I remember the were BIG waves and I had to fight to catch them but when I did it gave me an amazing rush. Back to reality tho!